Ever since making my red Christmas dress, I have been wary of trying to sew with rayon challis again. That one was so difficult to work with. But I had the opportunity of trying out Riley Blake Design's rayon challis, and when it arrived, I was instantly impressed by the feel of it. 

It didn't take too long to pair it with this 1930s blouse pattern (a reprint from McCall's) that I've had a long, long time and never tackled. 

It certainly was interesting to make. In the first place, I don't enjoy working with modern patterns, and also the front pieces were so strangely shaped it was not intuitive at all – I had to very closely follow the instructions (not something I usually do). 

But I took it slow, step by step, and after a bit I could see how the pieces worked together – then it became easier. 

The rayon was a dream to work with. A nice weight, dense grain, cool feel, and while it has some widthwise stretch and more drape than cotton, really wasn't much harder to work with than cotton. 

Riley Blake has only a handful of solids and prints, so I hope they come out with more colors and vintage-appropriate prints, because I highly recommend working with it if you're looking for a good rayon for your vintage sewing. The abstract style of print I thought could work well for 1930s, which had its share of wacky novelty and abstract prints. This print also comes in burgundy, but I chose the blue since it's a better color for me. 

I was intending on making this a sleeveless blouse, to wear under jackets and sweaters, but ended up deciding to put short sleeves on it instead, to make it more versatile. I chose a sleeve pattern from a vintage 1930s pattern I own, and the pattern combinations went together quite smoothly. 

When I first tried it on, the draped neck was too low – definitely lower than the pattern photo shows. So I played around with the drape a bit to make it higher. Still lower than I prefer, so I may fiddle around with it some more. Another time I will take some fullness out of the drape, or otherwise see if I can figure out how to make it higher.

 Instead of working buttonholes, since it easily slips over the neck, I just sewed the buttons on through all the layers. I like the subtle blue-on-blue touch they add to the shoulder. 

The back collar piece is fun too!

Even though this is an earlier 1930s pattern, since that is not my era, I ended up mixing eras a bit. I paired it with a true vintage skirt from my late '40s skirt suit (had a similar skirt style and length to the mid 1930s). 

Then because I had just bought a new hat, I wanted to wear them together, so while I think the hat is a later date than the blouse style, I wore it anyway. 

That shape and the taffeta polka dot ribbon! It was a little more than I would have liked to pay, especially since the ribbon is visibly worn, but it was so unique and "me" that I ended up splurging and getting it anyway. 

This was also a perfect opportunity to wear my favorite 1930s reproduction shoes from Remix Vintage Shoes. This style they had made a long time ago, and I saw photos of it and longed for a pair, but never found any in my size on eBay. Lo and behold, last fall they brought these shoes back – you better believe I snapped up a pair during their sale!

My new blouse is very comfortable and easy to wear. The rayon doesn't feel like a synthetic against my skin, but has a lovely drape and coolness that I enjoy as a change from cotton. I need to get a solid color soon to make one of those detailed dresses that need something solid and drapey!

It was fun to make this pattern – definitely a unique one, out of my ordinary rut – and I can see myself wearing it with sweaters and jackets as well.

Since it is a dark color, but short sleeves, it will be season transitional. Since it is more slippery, I have trouble keeping it tucked in, so another time may make it more fitted and add a side zipper. But if you like pullover tuck-in blouses with a bit of shaping, this pattern is a good one. It also crosses over to modern very well, so could be a versatile wardrobe builder.

So much for my revised opinion of rayon challis! I'm sure there will be more adventures in the future with this lovely fabric. 

Photos as usual by the talented Elsie.