Another fall sewing project was crossed off the list a few weeks ago! When I made my gray gingham dress earlier this year, I realized it would be a perfect pattern to make again as a fall version with a solid color fabric at some point, but had no immediate plan. That changed when I found a gorgeous wool/rayon fabric on sale at JoAnn in such a nice plum color with a subtle pattern and boucle texture.

IMG_9984

 

I had been pretty good at not buying new fabric this year for the most part, but JoAnn's coupons and this fabric tempted me too much. I did only get 2 1/2 yards of it, and it was barely enough! Especially because I forgot I wanted 3/4 sleeves and cut short sleeves out first. Recutting the sleeves took the very last bit of fabric, and I had to piece the belt!

IMG_9950

IMG_9950

 

This is my very favorite kind of solid fabric. I am usually drawn to prints, despite the vast amount of patterns that look better in solid fabric, but a solid like this excites my sewing and design ideas just as much.

IMG_9958

 

Since this was the second time around for this pattern, I was hoping to fix the fit issues. Some of them I did, but I went overkill in shortening the bodice and it ended up way too short. Such a bother! Without a belt the dress almost looks empire waisted. The belt helps put the waist where it belongs, but the waist seam will still peek out above it occasionally. I'm still bummed since I expected this time I would have been able to fix the problem!

IMG_9981

IMG_9981

 

Otherwise the construction went easily. Doing it the second time helped a lot since I had already figured out how to do the darts. It's a good thing, too, since it was practically impossible to see the seams in this fabric if ripping out was necessary.

IMG_9941

 

As I expected, the unique dart placement and construction adds such a fun, subtle touch of class and quintessential 1940s style to this dress. The large matte black buttons finish it off nicely.

IMG_9991

 

Despite the dark color, the darts show up rather well. They also give it a square-shouldered silhouette without the need for shoulder pads. They don't lay quite as well as the gray version, since this fabric is thicker, but I had fairly good success with making them behave.

IMG_9969

IMG_9971

 

I consider it a perfect autumn classic, simple and classy. It's the type of dress that is interesting but understated enough to allow accessories to shine.

IMG_9958

 

I dressed it up a bit more than my usual look for this photo shoot, with a black velvet-feather wreathed hat, beaded satin clutch, and rhinestone pin. I didn't have a more formal background to go with it, but this dress could easily be a day dress too depending on how it is accessorized. 

IMG_9965

IMG_9998

 

This wool blend drapes so nicely. I wish I could find more in other colors! It is one of my very few purchases of apparel fabric from JoAnn that isn't cotton, and so far I am pleased with it.

IMG_9944

 

Like many other classics, I expect this dress will become a fall and winter staple. I'm pleased with how well this pattern coordinated with the fabric to create my initial idea in real life – it feels very period correct!

IMG_9928 (1)

joysinstitches Avatar

Published by

Categories: ,

5 responses to “1940s Perfectly Plum Dress”

  1. Rebecca Young Avatar
    Rebecca Young

    I love the colour of your dress

    Like

  2. maddie b Avatar

    Hi! You are so talented! I also love to wear vintage, but I live in a city with a lot of people, and I walk mostly everywhere. Do you ever get weird looks from people or just plain rudeness ever? I am always so self-conscious when walking around town because I can feel people staring at me. Also, do people think you’re a lot older than you actually are? I love your designs and want to know what your experiences are wearing vintage out and about. I wish I were more confident about wearing full on vintage, and you inspire me!

    Like

  3. Kristen Stoltzfus Clay Avatar

    Hi Maddie! Thanks for your comment! I live in a rural area and not in a city, but pretty much the only reaction I get is warm approval or curiosity. Lots of people have admired my style and said it reminded them of their mom or grandma…ladies have said, “Oh, I wish I could dress like that!” etc. If I’ve gotten stares, I haven’t really noticed and wouldn’t care if I did. I’ve never dressed in modern styles or followed trends, so I’ve always looked different. That said – I have lived in more conservative areas where perhaps people are more used to seeing dresses, etc, but even when I’m traveling I can’t remember any rudeness and have had multiple good conversations started by comments on my style.
    However, I usually only wear vintage clothes and hairstyle – I do wear hats to church, but save my makeup and gloves and more outlandish accessories for photo shoots or costume events.
    I think a lot of people actually appreciate seeing a young person dress tastefully and confidently instead of the sloppy, self-and-others-dishonoring way that is now too much in vogue. Those who don’t like it usually have a chip on their shoulder about the old-fashioned era I evoke – which I am not at all embarrassed about firmly evoking! To me it’s more of a mission. 🙂

    Like

  4. maddie b Avatar

    Thanks for letting me know, Kristen! You’re definitely right about people admiring a young person who dresses well. And I can definitely appreciate someone who has made an effort to look classy. They look “shiny” somehow.
    I usually shop at thrift stores and have found some real vintage gems, and I tend to mix eras in my ensembles sometimes. The quality it so different and much better! Maybe I will take up sewing and experiment with repro fabrics in the future though. Anyway, I love your style and admire the confidence you exude!

    Like

  5. Kouign_amman Avatar
    Kouign_amman

    Love the dress! The color is gorgeous. You bring up a fitting point I have been struggling with, shortening of the bodice. I don’t know what your pattern looks like, but you may have helped me figure out what type of adjustment I need to do. The fabric on the back of your dress looks like it is pooling despite your adjustment. As you described the waist in front is too short though.
    I found this blog post on fitting that might apply to both our situations, check out “sway back” adjustment.
    http://kitschycoo.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-lady-skater-fitting-and-adjustments.html
    I look forward to hearing whether this works for you, because I just keep struggling to shorten my bodices and then get them to sit right.

    Like

Leave a reply to maddie b Cancel reply