For my Easter dress this year, I decided to step out of my tried-and-true comfort zone and do something rather different for me. I have long loved Esther's beautiful tropical 1940s dress – I liked it so much I bought the pattern after seeing her version.

But the pattern languished in my stash for a while. I didn't think it would look right in cotton, so I wanted a nice drapey fabric for it, and hadn't worn peplums before so I wasn't sure how good it would look on me. 

That changed when I saw some bold floral rayon crepeon fabric on sale for a few dollars a yard and decided to be adventurous and get some. Right away I mentally paired it with the Butterick reprint, and decided it would be my Easter dress this year. Something new for me.

New in more ways than one! I read up on the fabric first and decided to try it – it's similar to rayon challis but has a little more density and a bark-like texture that hides wrinkles. I'd never worked with fabric this stretchy and gauzy before, and wasn't sure if I would end up with a total flop, or wish I'd gotten more of the fabric.

Neither ended up happening. When I washed it, I was amazed at how much it shrank (thankfully I'd been warned by Esther's experience), but then that also made it a little denser which was fine. Cutting out wasn't too bad (I had to be careful with the bodice placement and use lots of pins, being careful not to stretch out of shape as I cut) but sewing was a challenge as the fabric just wanted to grow on each seam. 

Definitely a fabric of this type has to be used for a dress with little structure. This one was fairly simple, but I did have trouble with the front bodice – the only really structured piece of the dress.

When I looked closely at the pattern, I had two issues with it. First, I expected the peplum to be sewn on at least one side into the side seam, but the instructions indicated it would hang free. I wasn't sure at all that would look right – sounds like a good recipe for an apron look to me! But the fabric was so soft and drapey I decided to risk it, after reading several reviews of the pattern where no one mentioned a problem with the construction – though I don't think I would ever make it in cotton or any stiffish fabric.

The other thing I didn't like about it were the sleeves. I wanted short sleeves, but I didn't like the ones shown, and the arm holes looked just too big. But I went ahead and cut it out, substituting the sleeves for tulip sleeves from another reprint.

Sewing it with patience, I managed to get it all put together despite the stretching. The hand sewing was almost invisible in the loose weave of the fabric, which was nice, and the hems pressed so nicely. 

The dress is very comfortable, and the fabric really is the perfect match for a 1940s silhouette. Several people complimented me on it and all were surprised I had made it, since it "looked store-bought" – always flattering for a seamstress to hear. 🙂 I know a lot of that was the fabric, so I'm glad I made the choice to get it, though I don't think I would work with it often.

Because it has a nice width-wise stretch, I am hoping to be able to wear it as maternity even when I get bigger, even though this is not a maternity pattern. I think the peplum is flattering as well for a baby bump.

And the peplum doesn't look apron-y at all, which was a relief!

But the sleeves openings, on the other hand, really are too big (not for the period, just for my taste), though I like how the tulip sleeves look. Another time I will just substitute a different bodice pattern to pair with the skirt.

The fabric is kind of strange – when I wash the dress, it shrinks up width-wise, and when I put it on it feels a trifle snug, but relaxes after a little bit of wearing and by the end of the day feels too big! Probably because of the stretchiness of the fabric.

The belt doesn't stay put because of how limp the fabric is, and I wanted an adjustable one – with maternity in mind – so I just pin it in place. 

Because of how busy the print is, I paired it with very simple accessories like my favorite 1940s spectator heels (comfortable enough to wear all day!) and a classic ribbon-covered beret. Though I have to say, one thing I like about the print (an unusual color scheme for me) is how many colors will coordinate. Brown, green, beige, white, coral, tan, dark red…I could pair it with a different color of accessories every month and always find something to match.

Overall, I'm glad I tackled the adventure. I'm really pleased with the finished product, will get a lot of wear out of it, and love how Period Correct the dress looks – but at the same time, boy! Was I ever glad to get back to working with some smooth and stable cotton again!