This outfit idea was on my to do list since last fall, when I saw a photo of a vintage dress and jacket combo online, and loved the way it had two different looks depending on if the jacket was worn or not. At the time, I had slated the linen for this future project, but several months later when I got a lovely 1930s pattern on Etsy, I realized it would be perfect for this outfit.

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So when another autumn rolled around and the weather was getting suitable for such an outfit, I started work on it. I made the dress first. The bodice turned out fine – all those tucks! – and I really liked it. Then I tried it on and realized the rayon I used was so super thin that even with a  slip underneath it would be quite see-through, so I had to cobble together a lining, which took several tries and is certainly not very neat inside! I should have just flat lined it in the first place.

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The skirt I had some difficulty with because my tailor's chalk markings disappeared on the linen and I had to re-figure out the back pleat placement, which meant some ripping out and resewing.

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Then once all those seams were done (from the waist to about 12 in. from the hem), I realized that it was going to be way too snug. Like way, way too body hugging snug! So out came the seam ripper again and I made the back pleats/darts short instead. I do like the detail they add.

It was a pain trying to rip out seams on the linen, which was fairly coarse.

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I made the belt up on my own without a pattern, and despite all the various issues, once it was all put together I really like the dress. I love the bodice detail. Gold is not my usual color, but especially as a skirt, I hope it works well enough. And it's certainly a nice fall color!

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The jacket was a different story! I had cut the front panel inserts on the bias, thinking it would add a nice subtle variation. Those panels turned out way too huge (I think because the bias stretched so much in the linen) and instead of trimming them off, I tried pleating them into the front pieces. Which worked fairly well, but I don't like how it looks on me very much…

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The back I couldn't figure out how it was supposed to be done so I winged it. It overlapped in a strange way.

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I added a button tab, just for fun. (And perhaps to help secure the overlap…)

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The sleeves again were difficult since some of the darts went wonky, and by that time I was so tired of working with the linen that I only partially fixed it.

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After I have some time and space away from that linen, I may go back and redo the jacket – otherwise I doubt it will get worn much with the dress.

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It was fun to find a use for these "cinnamon bun" buttons I've had in my stash for ages. I doubted I'd ever actually use them since they were so unusual, but of course 1930s buttons often were – and I had just the right amount for this jacket, including one larger size for the waist!

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While this outfit gets a sort of love-hate opinion from me (love the dress, hate the jacket), I do definitely like the mix-and-match of having a coordinating jacket and dress. The dress collar adds a touch of contrast to the jacket. Besides the two different looks it gives, it's also perfect for Idaho autumns since often it is quite warm during the days and I can use a short sleeved dress, while mornings and evenings are cold, when I can add the jacket. While this combo didn't quite turn out like I had pictured, it at least has made me interested in doing another version someday with a happier fabric and jacket pattern.

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Of course the gold linen goes perfectly with my nutmeg-brown Alice shoes from Royal Vintage. I also wore my favorite 1930s hat, and added a touch of color with my accessories.
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These coral grape earrings and bracelet are vintage and belonged to my husband's grandmother, as well as the ivory beads. They are so pretty! The grape leaves on the bracelet kept catching on my skirt, however, so another time I'll wear it with a denser fabric to avoid damaging my clothes.

The gloves I dyed myself, once their original white became too dingy for use.

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While this is not my favorite sewing project this year, is not a job I'm very proud of, and it doesn't even rank up with the "frustrating but worth it" projects, I certainly learned a lot during the construction and am sadder but wiser as a result. 

At least I am happy enough with the dress that it's partially a success!

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3 responses to “1930s Gold Linen Jacket & Dress Set”

  1. Alyssa Wesselmann Avatar

    I’s always so disappointing to not be fully in love with the finished garment! However, I love the sleeves of your jacket! And the overlapped back makes a pretty cool design feature!

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  2. Jo Kemp Avatar
    Jo Kemp

    I think you are being a little hard on yourself! The jacket looks pretty good to me – 1930’s patterns are always hard! Your determination to finish the project is admirable, tough fabric to work with too. I hope the jacket does not get pushed to the back of the wardrobe – it would be such a shame! It really is lovely.

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  3. Rebecca Young Avatar
    Rebecca Young

    It is a pity you had so many problems in completing this outfit but the end result looks fine to me

    Like

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